Sewing-machine.



Patente@ Nov. 13, 1917.

3 sHETs-sHEET x.

E. J. RAY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION man nEc.27,1915. 1,246,320.

m K .ww

E. 1. RAY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLlcATIoN FILED DEC.27.1915.

1,246,320. Patented Nov. 13, 1917.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

E. l. RAY.

SEWING MACHINE,

APPLICATION FILED DEC.27,1915.

Patented NOV. 13, 1917.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

unirme STATES rnrnnronnron, l i

EUGENE JqRAnor BnvEnLxjMAssAoi-rnsnrfrs,esslenon tro-nnirnnsnon MACHIN-ERY'COMPANYYjOF PATERSON, JERSEY, A CORPORATION OFNEW J'EIRSFY.v

Appncatio'n med December a?, 1915. seriaifno. 68,756.

T 0 @ZZ/whom t may concern.' Be it known that I, EUGENE .Il RY, a citi-Azen of the United States, residing at Beverly,

in the county oFisseXand State'of'Massachusetts, have yinvented certainnew and use- A ful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do herebydeclare the'following to be a `full, clear, and exactjdescription oftheini vention, such` as'will enable others skilled :in v the art towhich it appert'ainsto inalre'and` use the same.V

The invention relatesto sewingrnachines, 1'

and more'v particularly :to machines Vfor forming overseam-stitchesabout the edge of a buttonhole. Y 4j Sewing machines of this typeareusually provided with an upper needle and coperating loop takingdevices below the work for taking a loop from Ethe upper needle *duringeach reciprocation.l At the completion of a sewing operation the sewingmechanism is `arrested with 'the upper needle in retracted position, andwith ythe last loop Ytaken from the needle still held b v the looptaking devices. above the work, either automatically or by Vtheoperator, the waste lend leads down through the last needle hole'abou'tthe loop taking devices to the previous stitch, and as,

the work is spacedor removed, this waste end is drawn down through the'last needle hole by reason ofit-s engagement'wit-hthe loop `takingdevices, ancl re"1na1ns as a compara-- tively long thrum end on the'under 'sideof :the work. v I

` Onjcertai'n classes of work` these thrum ends'o'n the under side 'ofthe work are vseriously objectionable,*and it is theobject of thepresentfinvention lto :prevent'their production. To this end theinvention contemplates 'the provision in Aa. sewing machine having anupper needle and under loop taking devices, of meansfor preventing thetakingof the loop from the upper needle during the final reciprocationof the needle,

so that at the completion of the sewing the needle thread will lead from.the needle down through the last needle hole and directly to theprevious stitch. The severed end of the needle thread will not thereforebe drawn down through the needle hole to the `under side of the workwhen the work is When the 'needle thread is severed 'needle Vhole-"It ispreferred tovprevent Athe taking-of the loopv from the needle by athread talreup which *isf inactive luntil the pulls-on'the thread asthenee'dle lstarts -upward, and thus keeps the thread out of theVpath-of thelo'op taking devices. This construction' is not essentialtothe broader fea- 'tures of the invention, however. f The 'inventionwill vbe readily understood from an inspection of the accompanyingdrawings, land the following detailed Ydescription of Y the mechanismillustrated therein.

, In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side eleva- Ation,"p'ar"tly in section,showing so much of a buttonhole sewing machine as is vnecessaryVtodll'ustrate the application of the present `invention thereto ;Fig. 2is a front elevation,

partly in section, on line 2 2, Fig. 6; Figs. 3, 4 and 5 are detailsshowing the upper needle and thread in different positions during fthe:last reciprocation of' the needle;

I'Fig.' 6is afparti'alplan view ofthe machine; `and 7 is a partialsectional view show-Vv ing the parts 'in' a yditierent position fromthatshoiwn in Fig.y 2; and Fig. 8 is a de- "tai-led? section on Vline 88, FigjQ. l

In the drawingsthe invention is shown 'as embodied' iin' a buttonholemaking ma! chine rhaving" in generalv the construction 'and mode ofoperationof them'ach'ineshown vand described in Patent ldd-1,063,880,ldated June 3, 1913. In this machine the stitch forming mechanismcomprises an upper' needle 2, an under needle 4l,- and a looper 6, whichtakes a loop from the upper needle below the 'work and holds it inposition for the passage of the under Avneedle therethrough. The upperneedle `is carried by a needle bar 8 which isA mounted :to reciprocatein' a rotary head 10, and the under needle yand looper are mounted in arotary turret 12. The work is held in position over the throat plate 14by a work clamp vcom'- prising the under jaws 16 carried by the vworlrsupporting plates 18, and the upper jaws 20 carried by the arms 22 whichare pivoted to blocks mounted on the Work sup-v i :SpecificationofiLettcrs Patent. .Patented Nvllg,l 191m 'linal 'reciprocation of the*needle, and then porting plates. The work supporting plates are mountedon a carrier 24 which is moved to bring the work from cutting to sewingposition, and to feed the work during the sewing, as described in thepatent above referred to. f

The upper needle thread leads from the tension device 26 through thethread kguides 28, and through a guide 30 in the end of a takeup arm 82,and then to the upper end of the hollow needle bar 8, down through whichit passes to the light tension device 34 and to the eye of the upperneedle. During the sewing of the buttonhole the takeup arm 32 remains inthe inactive position indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 6, and duringeach reciprocation of the Vupper needle the needle casts out a loop,indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 4, which is taken by the looper 6 andheld in position for the passage of the under needle therethrough.During the last reciprocation of the needle at the endof'the sewingoperation, the takeup arm 32 is swung into the' full line positionofFig. 6 duringy the upward movement of the needle, and keeps the threadtaut between the previous -stitch and the eye of the needle, asindicated in full lines in Fig. 4, so that the point I of the looperdoes not pass between the thread and the needle. The taking of the loopby the looper is thus prevented during the last reciprocation of theneedle, and

when the sewing mechanism is arrested at.

the completion of the sewing, the thread will lead from the previousstitch along the under surface of the work and up through the lastneedle hole to the eye of the needle, as indicated in Fig. 5. The needlethread may be severed close to the work either automatically or by theoperator, and the severed end will be retained in the last needle holewhen'the work is spaced or removed, and the production of thrum ends onthe lower side of the work will thus be avoided.

The means shown for operating the takeup arm 32 in the manner abovedescribed comprises a lever 36 provided Vat its free end with a gearsegment 38which engages a gear segment 40 securedto the lower end of thetakeup arm is secured. The lever 86 is mounted on a vertical pivot stud44 which is forced downward by a spring 46, and the lower end of whichis supported upon a controlling bar 48. The lever is provided with adepending pin 50 which is engaged by a cam 52 on the driving shaft 54for the sewing mechanism during the last reciprocation of the needle.During the sewing of the buttonhole the lower end of the pivot stud forthe lever 36 rests on the surface 56 at the end of the controller bar48, and the lever 36 is held in raised position, as indicated in Fig. 7,so that the pin 56 is out of the f2 path of the cam 52. During thesewing, therefore, the takeup arm 32 remains in the dotted line positionof Fig. 6, being held in position by the spring 58. The controller bar48 is connected through the rack teeth 60 and the segment 62 withI ytherock shaft 64 which carries the stop arm 66 forming a part of themechanism for stopping the shaft 54 at the completion of the sewingoperation. During the sewing the stop arm and rock shaft are swung intothe dotted line position of Fig. 6, and remain in this position untilthe sewing mechanism is to be arrested, when they are swung into thefull line position of Fig. 6 by a cam 68 on the cam gear 70, whichengages an arm 7 2 on the lever to move down into the position indicatedin Fig. 2, and bringing the pin 50 on the lever .into the path of thecam 52. During the last revolution of thefshaft 54 the cam 52 thereforeacts to swing the takeup Vlever from dotted to full line position of Fig6, and causes it to pull on the thread during the last upward stroke ofthe needle and thus prevent the taking of the loop by the looper, asabove described. When the stop arm and rock shaft are swung intoinactive position in starting the driving shaft 54 for the sewingmechanism, the controller bar 48 is returned to the position indicatedin Fig. 7thus disengaging the pin on the lever 36 from the cam 52, sothat the takeup arm 32 may return to dotted line position, preparatoryto its next thread pulling movement.

While it is preferred to employ the speciiic construction andarrangements of parts shown and described, in embodying the invention inthe machine of the patent above referred to, it will be understood thatthis arrangement is not essential, but may .be

.varied or modiiied as found desirable or best suited to theconstruction of machine in which it is tobe embodied.

Having explainedthe nature and object of the invention, andspecificallyv described one form of mechanism in which it may beembodied, what is claimed is l. A sewing machine, having, incombination, sewing mechanism comprising a needle and cooperatingloop-taking devices, means` normally inactive forpreventing the takingof the loop from the needle, a normally disconnected actuator for thepreventing means, and a controller for determining the stitch formingcycle in which the actuator shall actuate said preventing means.

2. A sewing machine, having, in combinaythe pivot stud of the lever36,thus allowing of the needle, and controller means for con- A necting theactuator and takenp during a predetermined stitch forming cycle.

3. A sewing machine, having, 1n combination, sewing mechanism, a takeup,a cam 1'0- tating in time with the sewing mechanism, and a controllerfor connecting the cam to actuate the takeup during the finalreciprocation of the needle at the completion of the sewing.

EUGENE J. RAY.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

